Man Mo Temple

Man Mo Temple sits among the antique shops of Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan, and you smell it before you see it. Step inside and look up. Giant spiral incense coils hang from the roof beams in rings, each one an offering from a family, with a paper tag carrying their prayer. Smoke drifts through the hall and softens the light from the lanterns and red and gold altars. Worshippers light incense sticks and leave joss paper, vegetables and round fruit such as oranges as they pray for success and good fortune. The temple was built between 1847 and 1862 by wealthy Chinese merchants, and it is one of the oldest temples in Hong Kong. It honours two gods. Man Cheong is the god of literature and Mo Tai is the god of martial arts, which is where the name comes from. Students hoping to pass the old imperial civil service exams came here to pray before their papers. The temple is part of a compound of three buildings. Next door, Lit Shing Kung was built to honour all the heavenly gods. Kung Sor was an assembly hall where local community affairs were discussed and disputes were settled. Since 1908 the compound has been run by the Tung Wah Group of Hospitals. It was graded a Grade I historic building in 1993 and declared a monument in 2010. Look for the Qing dynasty bronze bell cast in 1847 and a sedan chair made in 1862, along with carved granite pillars, wooden plaques, ceramic figures and old murals. It is small and dim, and it is still a working place of worship, so keep your voice low and give people space at the altars. There is no charge to go in.